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27.2.15

FENDI AW15

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Fendi's new headquarters in Rome, the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, has been playing on Karl Lagerfeld's mind. The linear and protective nature of this collection channeled that. Structured long lines and thick fabrics gave the impression of body armour, something which reflected the fortress style architecture of Fendi HQ. Largerfeld also remarked that he had been concerned with how feminine Fendi's previous collection was and this was a polarized offering. The beaky bird of paradise flowers peeking out of each bag were aggressive, contrasting the clean colours of the clothes. Fur was present in a big way here; mini dresses were swathed in it. The coats at the end of the collection gave the strongest representation of protection. Come winter, they will be all the insulation a girl could need.

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23.2.15

WHO WHERE WHAT: OSCARS 2015



The annual 'what will she wear' fest that is the Oscars took place in LA last night. Reese Witherspoon may have complained about dress related questions, however the 25 strong team at Alaia who created Lady Gaga's dress were probably pretty happy to get their name checks. Sure, Reese is right, the event is there to appraise the work of the film world. But the fashion world watched (apologetically) to see who wore what and to cringe when J.Lo and Luciana Duvall rocked up bedecked in the same Elie Saab number - awkward. The awards show was all the duller for a lack of Jennifer Lawrence falling over but even her absence may have been made up for by the musical performances of the night. Here's my round up of the best dressed of the night.

1. Emma Stone in Elie Saab Haute Couture
Emma Stone is the ultimate girl crush (well, mine anyway) and this embellished chartreuse number by Elie Saab put her leaps and bounds ahead of the pack. It's always refreshing to see something other than black, white or red. Extra brownie points too for perfect lipstick and matching shoes.

2. Rosamund Pike in custom Givenchy Haute Couture
Rosamund gave a killer performance in Gone Girl (geddit?) and this dress was oh so Amy. I haven't exactly been a fan of her fashion choices this awards season but this dress was spot on. Colour, tick. Cut, tick. Detailing and perfect shoes, tick. Gutted that she didn't take away the award for Best Actress but yay for the Brit girls.


3. Zoe Saldana in Atelier Versace
Zoe Saldana, ever a fabulous dresser, looked every inch the Hollywood siren in this pink champagne (that's a colour, right?) gown. She looked pretty uncomfortable yeah, but the clinch at the waist was worth it. This is how Oscar dresses should be.


4. Eddie Redmayne & Hannah Bagshawe in Alexander McQueen 
All hail the cutest damn couple in Hollywood, probably the world. Eddie's acceptance speech for his performance as Professor Stephen Hawking was bashful perfection and we're all oh-so-pleased that he won. His victory was all the sweeter for the pissed off look on Sherlock's face. Representing British fashion, the Best Actor and his wife wore Alexander McQueen and Hannah's dress was to die for. She may not be a Hollywood actress, but Hannah looked every inch the part. 


5. Jessica Chastain in custom Givenchy Haute Couture
Ever since we saw her in the red number in The Help we know Jessica Chastain knows how to wear a dress. This custom Givenchy number had all the right curves in all the right places (thank you Meghan), plus embellishment, a perfect navy hue and a thigh high split. Take note, Kim K, this is how you wear Givenchy. Sex bomb, sex bomb.


6. Lupita Nyong'o in custom Calvin Klein Collection 
Lupita, resident Darling of the Academy, flawed the field last year as she stormed to victory in a pale blue Prada gown. This year she stepped her game up in a custom Calvin Klein Collection, covered in six thousand (yes six thousand) pearls. Imagine the time that went into that. The cut made it all a tad Little Mermaid but a stunning one all the same. This is one mermaid I sure wouldn't mind looking like. 


7. John Legend in Gucci & Chrissy Teigen in Zuhair Murad Haute Couture
John Legend, dapper in Gucci, stole the show alongside Common. Their performance of Glory bought the audience to their feet and tears to the eyes of Oprah, David Oyelowo and Chris Pine (hot damn). If you didn't see their speech, go and look it up. Their eloquence and humility put the other speeches in the shade and made you feel like change really is gonna come. On Legend's arm was his wife, long legged gazelle goddess, Chrissy. Her pale blue embellished and thigh cut Zuhair Murad gown was flawless, the kind of number the Best Actress nominees should have braved.


8. Sienna Miller in Oscar De La Renta
Sienna Miller, boho chic queen, gave Peter Copping his red carpet debut in midnight blue Oscar De La Renta. The detailing on the dress (damn that filigree is good) was bang on, even those velvet bows which would usually trigger my gag reflex. Can we also just take a moment to look at how perfect Sienna's hair and make up is. 


9. Jennifer Hudson in Romona Keveza
Hooray for colour! J.Hud's yellow column gown from Romona Keveza was an absolute vision. I'm not always a fan of her red carpet looks but this one was perfect (I've used that word too much). Flattering, bold and memorable; good choice, Jen. 

22.2.15

NYFW ROUND UP



NYFW's frostiest season for a while has come to a close. My favourite shows of the week came from Altuzurra and Prabal Gurung but there were many more amazing looks. Below is my roundup of favourite looks of the week,

Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone bucked the 70s obsession and headed to the 90s, specifically 90s hip-hop. Think brightest bright hues, killer outerwear and the sort of slip dress that every 10s (if we call it that) wants to wear.



Alexander Wang
Take literally the phrase 'all black errythang' and you will have Alexander Wang's Fall collection. Grunge vibes were mixed with feminine embellishments. A departure from sportswear, perhaps, but a redirection towards the customer for sure.



Victoria Beckham
The evolution continues at Victoria Beckham. The designer has long passed the days of simple dresses and is branching into new territory. Outerwear here here was bold, and best in show, a fisherman knit paired with a satin skirt. All white and crisp.

 

Vera Wang
Showing in black is the quickest way to dispel a bridal tag. Vera Wang's Fall collection featured the footwear of the week, perfect for the New York freeze. Sharp tailoring was mixed with Vera's forte, dresses. Kendall Jenner's babydoll velvet dress stuck in the mind long after.

 

Proenza Schouler
Customer friendly wasn't really the feel from this collection, but the eye catching power of the pieces couldn't be denied. McCullough and Hernandez never fail to experiment and push the boundaries and this was a complex deconstruction of their fundamental core. Slashed tops embellished in thousands of sequins moved with a entrancing power, tweed coats provided the smart outerwear and the succession of dresses at the end provided an insight into the obsessive detailing of the designers. Sheer, embellished, feathered; they were a little too everything and yet flawless nonetheless.



Calvin Klein Collection
Francisco Costa does minimalism like no one else, but this was a new playing field. Outwear was crisp and clean yet detailed; a maroon overcoat rang of Louis Vuitton's PVC days and yet had a refinement to it. All were paired with skintight, thigh high leather boots that everyone watching wanted. The dresses which closed the show were the most 'Calvin', but the outerwear was the best.



Marchesa
Marchesa has long been known as the maker of princess dresses, ballgowns fit for the Oscars. Their collection didn't hold as much coherence as previous ones have but the dresses, inspired by the 20s, were still flawless. Chapman and Craig know their customer and they pitched right. Call it flapper, call it 20s, call it what you will. These dresses were a fairytale.



J.Mendel
Mendel's collection was inspired by 1970s New York nightlife; a scene to be seen. The baroque items that opened the show drew the eye, followed by a reinvention of the Mendel dress. This was less fairytale and more class; printed dresses with wrapped neck scarves, deconstructed nightwear, delicate lace overlaid with fur. There was a sexiness behind the collection and these clothes will be a surefire way to make an impression.



Oscar De La Renta
Peter Copping took centre stage as the new creative director with this collection and the man, handpicked by the late Oscar himself, had a whole lot to live up to. Copping took lead from those who had worked with Oscar before and it showed. The skirtsuits here were as elegant and refined as ever. Strength lay in colour (bold pinks, yellows and blues mixed with black) and the impeccable detailing on the dresses will resonate with the longstanding fans of Oscar. Look out for one of these at the Oscars this weekend. There were a lot of positives here and a lot of promise for Copping.



Michael Kors
Kors knows how to appeal to the fashion elite and he does it better than anyone. This collection offered sheer opulence paired with the American style which is the foundation of his brand. Fur (a Kors staple) opened the show and adorned several looks. Sharp tailoring and belted suits held a Mad-Men era vibe, but Kors woman held more power. Baroque details in gold were over the top but delightful and the dresses which closed the show were embellished and tailored to perfection.

18.2.15

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ AW15



Minimalism and Narciso Rodriquez are synonymous however his Fall Winter collection gave new rigour to the term 'minimal'. Straight cuts and elongated lines elevated simplicity to a new plane on which the models (wearing platforms) were Amazonian and the clothes went on forever. The trick with Rodriguez is to look beyond the minimalism and at the detail in the clothing which is always subtle; a leather lapel, delicate embroidery and tweedy panels added pops of detail.

On the rare occasion where the Rodriguez departs from a monochrome palette, colour is always interesting. Peach trousers were teamed with a pale tangerine coat. A mint waistcoat, cut to the hip, was a dream for workwear savvy watchers. The formula at Rodriguez has always worked; simple yet sharp clothes, minimal yet flattering. It worked again here.

16.2.15

PRABAL GURUNG AW15



Prabal Gurung's collection may have single-handedly brought back the slip dress. Hues of lemon, bright red, grey and midnight navy were fashioned into loose shapes, not fitted yet not unstructured. Slit to the thigh, they oozed a sexiness that was a departure from figure hugging. The choice of models reflected what Gurung was trying to do here; dressing women and womens' bodies. Outerwear was a juxtaposition to the dresses; heavy, thermal and masculine in a way that set the delicacy of the dresses off to perfection. If you want a summary of this collection look no further than Frankie Rayder, swathed in satin, chiffon and embellished midnight blue. The crowd cheered for the clothes, and Gurung has grown up.
 

15.2.15

ALTUZARRA AW15



No Joseph Altuzarra collection would be complete without a thigh-high split. The designer is one who knows his customer through and through and she was reimagined here through a succession of fur collars, knee high boots and Prince of Wales check. Altuzarra's big sell is outerwear; the most potent offering here was a pale blue tailor cut coat with a huge fur collar. Subtle, no, but perfect for the New York freeze. 

The woman here was a refined, subversive kind of sexy. The menswear influences were clear but femininity shone through. Knee high boots, topped with lace, hid everything yet suggested much. A white lace dress demonstrated a bold expansion of underwear as outerwear. The three velvet dévoré dresses which closed the show were the most eye-catching we've seen from Altuzarra thus far. Spattered with gold, slit to the thigh and finished with lace, they floated with the feel of a woman breaking the rules. 
   

13.2.15

WHEN TAYLOR MET KARLIE



Ever since the rumours began circulating about the Karlie and Taylor Vogue cover, I've been hoping that they were true. America's sweethearts, super best friends and blonde bombshells have indeed graced Vogue US's March edition, and in true Taylor style they don't disappoint. The photos by Mikael Jansson follow the pair as they embark on a road trip and laze around taking selfies and baking.  Cue pretty dresses, sickeningly cute poses and a whole lotta leg envy.

 

KAELEN AW15



Kaelen took their fall inspiration from Twin Peaks, giving a Fall collection which was surreal, complicated and a little bit twisted. Haworth continued to push her experimentation with materials. Note the first look: your grandma's peach curtains moulded into a coat, splashed with peak shapes and draped over a girly pink sweater, paired with a shimmering skirt, slit to the thigh to bring sexy back. Confusing at first glance, but by the second you wished you could wear that shimmery skirt. New York's polar temperatures require a little more than that in the sartorial department so Kaelen provided the outerwear. Two up-collared, tailored coats rang of London gentleman and toughened up the otherwise feminine offerings. Best in show here; the woven, tapestry-style pencil skirt that employed the infectious fringing we saw last season. Perfect for a New York woman, polar skies or not.

9.2.15

GRAMMYS BEST DRESSED 2015

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1. Rihanna in Giambattista Valli Couture

The ever flawless Rihanna stole the accolade for 'best dressed' last night with this beautiful pink concoction from Giambattista Valli. Yes, maybe it was a little overlarge. Yes, you could see it from the overhead shots. Yes, it took up three seats. But ever since this hit the couture runway back in January I have been praying to the fashion gods that someone would cave and wear it on the red carpet and Rihanna has answered those prayers. The tiered and embellished gown was opulent, eye catching and daring. And really, isn't that what Grammy dresses are all about?

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2. Taylor Swift in Elie Saab
Taylor Swift almost never fails to get it wrong on the red carpet (I won't comment on certain playsuits) but at the Grammy's she nailed it. This metallic teal cut-skirt number is refined, classy and eye-catching and I love the jewellery that she's paired with it. I'm glad to see that Taylor has departed from her old style of wearing nude and red lipstick over and over and this colour and look really suit her. Plus when you have the legs of a supermodel, it's always appropriate to show them off.

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3. Ariana Grande in Versace
The saying goes 'if it's not broke, don't fix it'. Ariana's dedication to white is certainly working for her this far and she has upgraded from last year with this sexy Versace number. The detailed embellishment of this was just screaming to be worn the red carpet. I wish that Ariana had worn some more delicate shoes as the white ones are a tad clumpy but I'm pleased to see her taking more risks with her fashion. Note to all, this is how you wear a dress.

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4. Miley Cyrus in Alexandre Vauthier
'Miley Cyrus' I hear you say?! Whilst most of Miley's fashion choices are as far from my taste as it is possible to get, I actually love this slashed Alexandre Vauthier number she chose for last night's show. We know her now for bold fashion choices and this is one that is paying its dues. The style really suits her and for once it doesn't look tacky. If in doubt, wear black. Ideally, wear this.

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5. Chrissy Teigen in Emilio Pucci
It's not difficult to look good on a red carpet when you're a Sports Illustrated model and Chrissy Teigan did exactly that in this cutout Emilio Pucci number. Although the cutouts are a little daring for my taste, I think the length and colour of the dress balances it out. Simple dresses with little details are always a hit with me and Chrissy looked fab in this. Also, hair envy.
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6.2.15

NEW YORK I LOVE YOU

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In the infamous words Amanda Seyfried's Karen, 'On Wednesdays we wear pink'. Come Wednesday 11th there is no guarantee of pink but there will be a healthy dose of knee high boots, 70s adornments and military dressing on the streets of New York as NYFW kicks off the Autumn/Winter (or Fall/Winter if you're that way inclined) season. Despite the minus temperatures currently inhabiting the city I'm also hopeful to see some angelic whites and florals. For Spring. Groundbreaking. 

Change has been afoot in New York. Mercedes Benz have ended their tenure as head sponsor and IMG has moved the event away from the Lincoln Centre; as a showspace geek I am excited to see the new venues for the season. There's also the usual reel of designers who I'm excited to see; the continued evolution of Dion Lee's cutting edge designs, the renewed street style dominance of Alexander Wang, life after Oscar at ODLR and, as ever, my favourite duo of McCullough and Hernandez at Proenza Schouler. 

Which shows are you excited for? Who do you want to see on the street?

Keep an eye out for:

Friday 13th: Jason Wu, Zimmerman, Cushnie et Ochs 
Saturday 14th: Dion Lee, Alexander Wang, Altuzurra
Sunday 15th: Victoria Beckham, Yigal Azrouel, Derek Lam, Prabal Gurung
Monday 16th: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone
Tuesday 17th: Rodarte, Oscar De La Renta, Narciso Rodriguez
Wednesday 18th: Proenza Schouler, Michael Kors, Marchesa
Thursday 19th: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs

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